From the vineyard to the glass: grape varieties, aromas, wine regions, quality levels and practical tips on tasting, storing and serving.
Wine is made when yeasts ferment the sugar in grapes into alcohol. What ends up in the glass depends on the grape variety, the soil, the weather of the vintage and the work in the cellar – above all on how long the juice stays in contact with the skins.
From pale grapes, usually pressed straight after picking and fermented without the skins. The range runs from light, fresh summer wines to powerful single-vineyard wines that age well.
From dark grapes, fermented on the skins, which give colour, aroma and tannin. Many red wines then mature in oak.
From dark grapes with only brief skin contact. Pale, fresh and fruity, usually drunk young. Schilcher is a Styrian speciality.
A second fermentation creates the bubbles – in the bottle (traditional method) or in a pressure tank. Frizzante has less pressure than Sekt.
From late-picked, nobly rotten, dried or frozen grapes. Part of the high sugar content remains unfermented. The wines from Lake Neusiedl are famous.
White wine fermented on its skins like a red turns orange and gains noticeable tannin. “Natural wine” is not a protected term; it usually means little intervention and little or no sulphur.
The term on the label depends on residual sugar – the sugar left in the wine after fermentation.
Wein: The simplest level without a narrower origin, formerly “table wine”.
Landwein: From one of the three wine-growing regions Weinland, Steirerland or Bergland.
Qualitätswein: From one wine-growing area, from permitted grape varieties, officially tested. Recognisable by the red-white-red band on the capsule.
DAC: Districtus Austriae Controllatus: quality wine that is typical of its area. Mostly in three tiers – regional wine, village wine and single-vineyard wine (Riedenwein).
Prädikatswein: By the sugar content of the grapes: Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Strohwein, Trockenbeerenauslese.
Around 40 grape varieties are permitted for quality wine in Austria. About two thirds of the vineyard area is planted with white varieties. These are the ones you will meet most often:
Austria’s most important variety, on about a third of the vineyard area. From light tavern wine to great single-vineyard wine. Its hallmark is a peppery note, the “Pfefferl”.
Smells and tastes of: green apple, pear, citrus, white pepper; when ripe also tobacco and honey
Does best on poor primary-rock soils along the Danube. Lively acidity, ages very well.
Smells and tastes of: peach, apricot, lime; a hint of petrol with age
Not related to Riesling. Fresh and light in Styria and the Weinviertel; in Burgenland the basis of great sweet wines and many sparkling wines.
Smells and tastes of: green apple, lemon, hay
Restrained and fine, with gentle acidity. Gains from a few years of age.
Smells and tastes of: pear, almond, nuts, bread
Called Morillon in Styria. Fresh and clear from steel tanks, creamy and powerful from small oak barrels.
Smells and tastes of: apple, melon, tropical fruit; in oak butter, vanilla, hazelnut
The leading variety of Southern Styria. Very aromatic and easy to recognise by its scent.
Smells and tastes of: gooseberry, elderflower, green pepper, freshly cut grass, blackcurrant
Light, dry and scented – a classic aperitif wine, mainly from Styria.
Smells and tastes of: nutmeg, elderflower, citrus, fresh grapes
A very old variety with intense scent and little acidity. A speciality of Vulkanland Steiermark (Klöch).
Smells and tastes of: rose, lychee, spices
Two varieties found almost only in the Thermenregion. Powerful, spicy wines with a rich texture.
Smells and tastes of: ripe pear, quince, apricot, almond
Austria’s most widely planted red variety, crossed in Klosterneuburg in 1922 from Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. Juicy and uncomplicated.
Smells and tastes of: cherry, sour cherry, a little cinnamon
The great red variety of Burgenland. Dark and spicy, with firm acidity and strong tannin; ages very well.
Smells and tastes of: blackberry, blueberry, cherry, black pepper
From the Pinot family, demanding in the vineyard. Velvety, dark wines, mainly from the Thermenregion and northern Burgenland.
Smells and tastes of: sour cherry, plum, dark chocolate
Pale in colour, fine and elegant. Needs cool nights and a great deal of care.
Smells and tastes of: strawberry, raspberry, cherry; forest floor and mushrooms with age
The Schilcher grape of Western Styria. Makes a rosé from onion-skin to deep pink with striking acidity.
Smells and tastes of: strawberry, redcurrant, nettle
International varieties, in Austria mostly partners in a blend with Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch.
Smells and tastes of: blackcurrant and green pepper (Cabernet), plum (Merlot), black pepper (Syrah)
Most impressions of a wine come through the nose. The aroma wheel sorts them into groups: the family inside, the individual scents outside. Tap a group to see which grape varieties it points to.
lemon · grapefruit · lime
Stands for freshness and lively acidity, typical of young white wines from cool sites.
Points to: Riesling, Welschriesling, young Grüner Veltliner
apple · pear · quince
Green apple indicates a young, crisp wine; yellow apple and quince more ripeness.
Points to: Grüner Veltliner, Weißburgunder, Welschriesling
apricot · peach · nectarine
The classic aroma of Wachau Rieslings – juicy and ripe.
Points to: Riesling, ripe Grüner Veltliner, Rotgipfler
pineapple · mango · lychee
Develops with high ripeness and in warm years. Lychee is the hallmark of Traminer.
Points to: Chardonnay, Traminer, ripe Sauvignon Blanc
strawberry · raspberry · cherry
Typical of lighter, paler red wines and of rosé.
Points to: Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, rosé, Schilcher
blackberry · blueberry · blackcurrant
Indicates powerful, dark red wines with plenty of extract.
Points to: Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
elderflower · rose · acacia
You recognise the aromatic varieties before the glass has reached your nose.
Points to: Gelber Muskateller, Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc
grass · green pepper · gooseberry
Green notes come from a cool climate or early picking. Welcome in Sauvignon, in red wine often a sign of little ripeness.
Points to: Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grüner Veltliner
white pepper · black pepper · nutmeg
The peppery note of Grüner Veltliner is one of the best-known varietal markers of all.
Points to: Grüner Veltliner, Syrah, Blaufränkisch, Muskateller
vanilla · toast · butter
Comes not from the grape but from the cellar: from the barrel, from ageing on the lees and from malolactic fermentation.
Points to: Barrel-aged wines: Chardonnay, powerful reds
honey · nuts · petrol
Develops over years in the bottle. Sweet wines from nobly rotten grapes also show honey and dried fruit.
Points to: Aged Riesling, sweet wines, Weißburgunder, Neuburger
flint · wet stone · forest floor
Often called “mineral”. An impression of leanness and saltiness that is hard to describe and easy to like.
Points to: Riesling from primary rock, Styrian Sauvignon Blanc, aged Pinot Noir
A single scent does not prove a grape variety. Only the combination – gooseberry, elderflower and grass, say – leads to Sauvignon Blanc.
Sweetness: Noticed first, at the front of the tongue. Even a dry wine can seem sweetish through ripe fruit and alcohol.
Acidity: Makes the wine fresh and your mouth water. Too little seems flat, too much sharp.
Tannin: From skins, pips and oak. It dries the mouth – like strong black tea. Gives red wine structure and keeping power.
Body: The weight in the mouth: from light like skimmed milk to full like cream. Determined by alcohol and extract.
Finish: How long the taste lasts after swallowing. A long finish is a sign of quality.
Cork taint: Smells musty, of wet cardboard or a damp cellar. The wine cannot be saved.
Oxidation: Brownish colour, smell of sherry or bruised apple: the wine has had too much air.
Reduction: Smells of rotten eggs or struck match. Often disappears when you swirl the wine vigorously or decant it.
Volatile acidity: A pungent smell of vinegar or nail varnish remover.
Tilt the glass against a white background.
Smell calmly first, then swirl the glass and smell again.
Move a sip around your mouth, draw in a little air and notice what follows.
Austria has around 44,000 hectares of vineyards, almost all in the east of the country. Four federal states form the major wine-growing areas: Lower Austria, Burgenland, Styria and Vienna. The climate combines warm, dry Pannonian summers with cool nights – hence the freshness and clear aromas of the wines.
Austria’s largest wine-growing state, with eight areas along the Danube and north and south of Vienna. Home of Grüner Veltliner and the great Rieslings.
A narrow Danube valley between Melk and Krems, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Steep stone terraces on primary rock yield world-famous Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. The categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd exist only here.
Around the old wine town of Krems. Primary rock in the west, deep loess terraces in the east – hence taut Rieslings and fuller Veltliners.
Around Langenlois, Austria’s largest wine-growing municipality. The best-known vineyard is the Heiligenstein with its desert sandstone, an exceptional soil for Riesling.
One of the smallest areas, south of the Danube. Limestone-rich soils give Veltliner and Riesling a firm, spicy character.
A long loess ridge north of the Danube. Spicy Grüner Veltliner and the speciality Roter Veltliner.
By far the largest area at around 14,000 hectares. The first DAC wine was created here in 2003: the peppery Weinviertel DAC from Grüner Veltliner. Its cellar lanes (Kellergassen) are typical.
Between Vienna and the Slovak border, south of the Danube. Red wine country with Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, which turns out especially fine on the Spitzerberg.
South of Vienna on the edge of the Vienna Woods. Around Gumpoldskirchen the rarities Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, further south St. Laurent and Pinot Noir.
The warmest wine-growing state, shaped by the Pannonian climate and Lake Neusiedl. Austria’s most powerful red wines and its great sweet wines grow here.
On the eastern shore of the lake. Zweigelt is the main variety; in the Seewinkel autumn mist brings noble rot and with it world-class Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.
On the western shore, on the slopes of the Leitha Hills. Limestone and schist yield mineral whites and taut Blaufränkisch. Ruster Ausbruch is made in Rust.
Burgenland’s smallest area at the foot of the Rosalia Hills. Known for Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and rosé.
“Blaufränkischland”. Heavy loam soils around Deutschkreutz, Horitschon and Neckenmarkt give dense, dark wines.
In southern Burgenland. Iron-rich schist soils give Blaufränkisch a cool, spicy note. Uhudler, from old ungrafted hybrid vines, is a curiosity.
Steep slopes, plenty of rain and cool nights: Styria is the land of scented, fresh white wines. Many vineyards are so steep that only manual work is possible.
Hill country on the Slovenian border around Gamlitz, Leutschach and Kitzeck. Sauvignon Blanc of international standing, plus Muskateller, Morillon and Welschriesling.
In the south-east, on the soils of extinct volcanoes. Spicy whites; Klöch is known for its Traminer.
Small and distinctive: home of Schilcher, a rosé from Blauer Wildbacher with vigorous acidity.
The only major capital with significant wine-growing inside the city limits. The vineyards lie on the Nussberg, the Bisamberg and in Mauer.
At least three white grape varieties grow together in one vineyard and are picked and fermented together. A DAC since 2013 – and the heart of Vienna’s Heuriger culture.
Wine is being grown again in Carinthia, Upper Austria, Salzburg, Tyrol and Vorarlberg too. Together they form the wine-growing region Bergland with a few hundred hectares.
Europe is the home of wine-growing as we know it. Spain, France and Italy together have almost half of the world’s vineyard area.
The benchmark for much in wine. Bordeaux stands for blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Burgundy for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from precisely defined vineyards, Champagne for bottle-fermented sparkling wine. Add the Rhône (Syrah, Grenache), the Loire (Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc) and Alsace (Riesling, Gewürztraminer).
Known for: Bordeaux · Burgundy · Champagne · Rhône
Wine from the Alps to Sicily, with hundreds of native grape varieties. Piedmont makes Barolo and Barbaresco from Nebbiolo, Tuscany Chianti and Brunello from Sangiovese, Veneto Prosecco and Amarone. South Tyrol is known for clear white wines.
Known for: Barolo · Chianti · Prosecco · Amarone
The country with the largest vineyard area in the world. Rioja and Ribera del Duero stand for Tempranillo, often aged long in barrel. Fresh Albariño comes from Galicia, Cava from Catalonia, Sherry from Andalusia.
Known for: Rioja · Ribera del Duero · Cava · Sherry
Riesling country with 13 wine regions. Fine, often off-dry Rieslings grow on steep slate slopes along the Mosel, Rhine and Nahe. Baden, the Pfalz and the Ahr are known for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Franken for Silvaner in the Bocksbeutel bottle.
Known for: Mosel · Rheingau · Pfalz · Baden
Many native varieties and two famous fortified wines: Port from the Douro valley and Madeira. Plus light Vinho Verde from the north and powerful reds from the Alentejo.
Known for: Port · Vinho Verde · Douro · Madeira
Tokaj, with its sweet Tokaji Aszú from Furmint, is among the oldest protected origins in the world. Around Sopron – as in neighbouring Burgenland – Blaufränkisch is grown, here called Kékfrankos.
Known for: Tokaj · Eger · Villány · Sopron
Switzerland drinks most of its Chasselas from Valais and Vaud itself. Slovenia shares hills and grape varieties with Styria. Greece has distinctive varieties such as Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini.
Known for: Chasselas · Štajerska · Assyrtiko
Regarded as the cradle of wine: finds document wine around 8,000 years ago. To this day wine is fermented here in qvevri, large clay vessels buried in the ground – the model for many orange wines.
Known for: Qvevri · Saperavi · Rkatsiteli
Outside Europe, in the “New World”, the label usually shows the grape variety rather than the origin. Many regions are warmer and sunnier; the wines are often fruit-driven and powerful.
Around four fifths of American wine comes from California. Napa Valley is famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus the Californian speciality Zinfandel. Oregon makes fine Pinot Noir, Washington powerful reds.
Known for: Napa Valley · Sonoma · Oregon
Vineyards at the foot of the Andes, many above 1,000 metres. The leading variety Malbec, originally from south-west France, gives dark, velvety reds in Mendoza. The scented white Torrontés comes from the north.
Known for: Mendoza · Malbec · Torrontés
A narrow strip between the Pacific and the Andes with a very reliable climate. Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maipo valley, fresh whites from Casablanca and Carmenère, a variety that has almost vanished from Europe.
Known for: Maipo · Casablanca · Carmenère
Wine-growing since the 17th century around Cape Town. Chenin Blanc is the most important white variety; Pinotage – a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault – is its own red. Stellenbosch is the centre.
Known for: Stellenbosch · Chenin Blanc · Pinotage
Shiraz (Syrah) from the Barossa Valley is the flagship: dark, spicy, powerful. Cooler areas such as the Clare Valley and Tasmania produce dry Riesling and sparkling wine, Margaret River Cabernet and Chardonnay.
Known for: Barossa · Margaret River · Shiraz
Cool climate and plenty of sun. Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, with its intense scent of gooseberry and passion fruit, made the variety famous worldwide. Central Otago is respected for Pinot Noir.
Known for: Marlborough · Central Otago
Canada is the largest producer of ice wine, mainly on the Niagara Peninsula. China is now among the countries with the largest vineyard area; regions such as Ningxia are attracting attention with red wines.
Known for: Niagara · ice wine · Ningxia